How to Identify Whether a Saree is Bomkai or Sambalpuri

India’s handloom tradition is a living treasure—woven with stories, symbols, and artistry that span centuries. Among the most celebrated handloom sarees from Odisha are the Bomkai saree and the Sambalpuri saree.

While both hail from the same state and are often confused for one another, they differ significantly in weaving techniques, motifs, colors, and overall aesthetic. Understanding these differences helps you appreciate the craftsmanship and ensures you purchase authentic Odisha handloom sarees with confidence.

Let’s explore how you can easily identify whether a saree is Bomkai or Sambalpuri—and uncover the fascinating artistry behind each.

What is a Sambalpuri Saree? 

The Sambalpuri Saree, often known as the Sambalpuri Ikat Saree, originates from western Odisha, primarily from regions like Sambalpur, Bargarh, Sonepur, and Balangir.

Its hallmark feature is the Ikat (Bandha Kala) technique - where the yarns are tied and dyed before weaving. Both the warp and the weft threads are resist-dyed according to a predetermined pattern, resulting in mesmerizing, mirror-like designs on both sides of the fabric.

Key Traits of Sambalpuri Saree:

Weaving Technique: Ikat or Bandha Kala (tie and dye before weaving)

Fabric: Available in silk and cotton variants

Motifs: Geometric shapes, wheels (chakra), flowers, conch shells, and temple borders

Color Palette: Bold contrasts—black, red, white, blue, and orange dominate

Design Clarity: The design appears identical on both sides, proving its handwoven Ikat authenticity

These sarees are not just visually stunning but carry a deep cultural and spiritual connection—especially to Jagannath culture and Odisha’s temple art.

 What is a Bomkai Saree?

The Bomkai Saree—also known as Sonepuri Saree—originated in Bomkai village of Ganjam district, but gained prominence when master weavers from Sonepur adapted and evolved its style.

Bomkai is a fusion of Ikat and extra weft weaving, combining traditional motifs with intricate embroidery-like borders and pallu designs. It is also called the “Sonepuri Bomkai” because of this elegant blend.

Key Traits of Bomkai Saree:

Weaving Technique: A combination of Ikat and extra weft embroidery

Fabric: Primarily cotton for everyday wear; silk for festive and bridal use

Motifs: Tribal art, fish, tortoise, peacock, flowers, and temple designs

Color Palette: Softer tones—maroon, mustard, olive, and off-white

Design Placement: Intricate border and pallu work; central body often simpler

Texture: Heavier and more textured compared to Sambalpuri sarees

Each Bomkai saree is a canvas of rural life, symbolizing prosperity and fertility—making it especially popular in rituals and traditional ceremonies.

Major Differences Between Bomkai and Sambalpuri Sarees

Understanding this table helps you identify at a glance whether you’re holding a Sambalpuri or a Bomkai saree.

How to Identify Authentic Sarees While Buying

Here are a few pro tips to ensure you’re buying authentic handloom pieces—not machine-made replicas:

Look for the Handloom Mark or GI Tag.
Both Sambalpuri and Bomkai sarees are GI-tagged products from Odisha.

Examine Both Sides.
If the design looks identical on both sides—it’s likely Sambalpuri. If the pallu has raised or embroidered patterns—it’s Bomkai.

Feel the Texture.
Sambalpuri silk is smoother and lustrous; Bomkai cotton feels heavier and more textured.

Ask the Seller About the Region.
Authentic weavers or handloom stores will mention the exact district (like Sonepur, Bargarh, or Ganjam).

Prefer Government-Recognized Outlets.
Buy from Odisha handloom emporiums, cooperative societies, or certified online stores.

Why Knowing the Difference Matters

Many customers unknowingly buy printed imitations marketed as “handloom Sambalpuri or Bomkai sarees.” By learning to identify genuine ones, you:

Support real weavers and artisans who preserve these crafts

Invest in sustainable and ethical fashion

Own a unique piece of Odisha’s heritage that will last generations

Promote cultural awareness about India’s textile diversity

Every purchase becomes more meaningful when you understand the story behind the threads.

Styling Tips for Both Sarees

For Sambalpuri Sarees:

Pair with oxidized or silver jewelry for a bold ethnic look

Choose sleeveless or high-neck blouses for a modern twist

Ideal for weddings, receptions, and cultural festivals

For Bomkai Sarees:

Combine with gold jewelry for a royal traditional vibe

Opt for soft silk variants for festive wear

Perfect for pujas, formal gatherings, and traditional ceremonies

Final Thoughts

Both Sambalpuri and Bomkai sarees are jewels in India’s handloom crown—distinct yet deeply connected through the soul of Odisha.

The Sambalpuri Saree dazzles with its perfect Ikat symmetry and vibrant colors.

The Bomkai Saree charms with its textured elegance and rich storytelling motifs.

Recognizing the difference not only helps you make better buying decisions but also deepens your appreciation for India’s textile heritage. When you wear either, you’re not just donning a saree—you’re draping a story of patience, devotion, and art.